Spa Pump Repair

Hot Tub and Spa Pump Repairs

The spa pack is the heart of your system. We can diagnose your problem and tell you what it will take and cost to repair your spa. I carry most parts in my van to get you up and going in most times the first visit.

Eventually all pumps fail. If yours is not getting suction, outputting enough volume, is leaking or just won’t start we offer a variety of options including new and rebuilt motors and pumps. And if you don’t need an entire pump we can replace internal parts like the impellers and some electrical components.

With over 14 years in Central Florida (30+ Overall) I stock my vehicle in order to try and prevent multiple trips, and my goal is to resolve the issue the first time. Either way you will only be charged one flat trip fee and parts that are required.

Spa Pumps

Anatomy of Hot Tub Pumps

Pumps are basically comprised of two main components: the wet end containing an impeller (which moves the water) and the electric motor (the dry end) which turns the impeller.

Symptoms of Spa Pump Failure

There are several signs of hot tub pump failure:

  • Malfunctions that prevent the motor from turning, including frozen shaft or bearings, may result in a humming noise.
  • A jammed impeller (inside the wet end) can do the same, as can a defective starting capacitor.
  • Badly worn bearings may cause a whining noise.
  • Leaks around the pump often indicate a failure of the pump seals. You will likely observe a puddle of water below the pump when these seals go bad.
You could replace these individual components (if you can find the proper parts). But if your pump is more than a couple years old, it is generally better to replace the entire pump-- motor and wet end. This is a cleaner and much easier repair, which results in a greater reliability factor in the long run. Our quality Replacement Spa Pumps are not expensive. In fact, we charge less for complete brand-new pumps (motor and wet end) than others charge for just the motor alone!

  1. The impellers must be matched to the motors. Do not mix them up. 1-1/2hp impellers must only be used with 1 -1/2hp "full rate" motors (those that have a service factor of 1.0) and 1 hp impellers with 1 hp "full rate motors" Mixing them up will result in improper motor amperage loads and subsequent premature failure of the motors. If your motor has a service factor (SF on the data plate) of other than 1.0, it is an up rated motor. In this case, match the impeller based on amp rating. To be sure you have matched them correctly, once the impeller is installed and the pump is running under full load, take an amperage reading while on high speed. The reading you get should be within 10% of the high speed amp rating on the data plate. If it measures higher, the motor will prematurely burn up. If it measures lower, you simply are not getting as much out of that motor as it is designed to deliver.

  2. If a motor seems to run fine but is not putting out the water like it should, remove the faceplate and check the blades of the impeller. If debris has gone through the pump, some of it may be stuck in the blades which will reduce the effectiveness of the pump. Also, while the impeller is accessible, check the tightness of the impeller on the shaft. To hold the motor shaft, remove the cap at the corded of the motor such that the metal shaft is exposed. The motor shaft has a large screwdriver slot in it. Insert a screwdriver with one hand and while preventing the shaft from moving, check to see that the impeller does not turn with the other hand.

  3. When changing an impeller, it is best to examine the motor shaft and remove any build up of rust that might have occurred during the life of the pump. If not removed, the rust may prevent proper tightening of the motor shaft resulting in rubbing, leakage, or stripping of the impeller threads inside the impeller. The impeller should glide on easily and turn onto the shaft easily until the threads bottom out with a very solid stop. If it turns hard, remove the impeller and check the motor shaft threads for debris from the previous impeller or dents that would prevent their mating with the plastic impeller threads. If damaged, correct the threads with a thin metal file or a shaft thread file designed just for this purpose.

  4. When replacing a pump seal, wet the impeller shaft a little with water to make sliding it on easier. The rubber doughnut on the seal will displace the water and a secure seat on the shaft will result. Once applied, the stainless steel side with the rubber doughnut should be against the impeller blades while the carbon ring side should face the shaft end of the impeller. The rubber cup on the ceramic 1/2 of the seal can also be lubricated with water in the same fashion in order to be pressed into the housing. It is important that the seal be pressed squarely down into the housing. If crooked, a leak will often result.

  5. Be sure to re-install the eye seal to the impeller before applying the faceplate. Without it, the pump will not move as much water, and will cavitate causing it to run noisily. Be sure to mount it with the wide side of the seal facing the pump faceplate

Contact The Orlando Spa Guy

Serving Orlando, Florida

(321) 229- 5975

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We can do just about any Spa Repair Service Needed

Some of the more common spa repairs we do include circuit boards, topside controls, heater elements, control boxes, trouble shooting, leaks, pumps/motors, jets, spa covers and acrylic repair. To schedule a prompt appointment: